30th Sept - Exmouth, Coral Bay... Carnarvon

Pack up, eat up, cheerios to Ricky and Jen, refuel and we are off south. It is 155KM to booked out Coral Bay, but we are going for a look it's only a 25KM 'detour' i.e. 12KM of the Exmouth - Minilya Road...

At Coral Bay we are struggling to find somewhere to stop, let alone turn around... It is packed, school holidays are ON!

Not much there but a beautiful bay alright. It is too busy, a bit like Rosebud Beach after Christmas...

 Another 100KM and we are back on the North West Coastal Highway - and 100km from the coast.... It is only another 100KM to Carnarvon - which has a bunch of dog friendly CPs. We cruised around town checking out the Gascoyne River estuary and refuelled at Woolies Fuel with our last 16c/l off...

We are in for the night at Coral Coast Tourist Park. $35 for the night and $50 bond for the dog?? and $20 security for the amenities key... We might as well make it two nights... Look around tomorrow as we are close to town - except it is QB Public holiday tomorrow...

RHHINO has passed the 10,000 KM mark for the trip, driving into Carnarvon!!!
And a bit over 23,000 KM since we first registered it not quite 2 years ago...

29th Sept - GO SWANS: Premiers 2012!!

Watched the Grand Final outside on the 22" TV. What a great game... and result.

The place has filled up a bit - with kids, and their parents.
Out of here tomorrow, via Coral Bay to somewhere in or near Carnarvon

But some perspective on the North West Cape, Exmouth, Ningaloo

This is the tip of the NWCape. The label above Exmouth id the "Naval Com Sta" which is many KM fro  the main VLF array - which is at top right. Note the antenna array is 10 times the size of Exmouth town

bigger view if the antenna array. Each spot on the hexagon is a 330M - 1000 ft tower

Turquoise Bay - with the fringing reef just offshore!!!

Exmouth town

28th Sept - Ningaloo Coast

Today is the day, our friendly neighbours from Fitzroy Crossing and west, are here too. Ricky and Jen offered us a lift around yesterday - but we have a car. They sympathise with dog owners - notwithstanding that Honey hates their Labrador, Ralph. They will look after or in on Honey today whilst we head into the National Park. The road warrior comraderie is wonderful.

Hesitation. Honey has the trots this morning... roused me early 'cos she needed to go! And it was windy as all get out last night and it continues. I am still nervous about awnings and wind after Cooktown last year... In fact went to the local camping store yesterday and bought better, sprung corner stays. Well it is too windy to wind it in anyway! Although I notice some of the roll-out awnings have been 'rolled in'.

Hey we are here to explore, and the wind is supposed to abate for the middle of the day... so 1130 we hand the keys to Ricky and Jen and head off directly to Turquoise Bay - 67KM. No detours.

We have passed a bunch of access roads, and about half indicate camping areas (but no vacancy). Press on - Turquoise Bay parking areas are busy... the options are the Drift Loop where you swim out to the reef edge and drift with the current northwards, or the Bay Loop.



As we have no swim fins we are not going out in the current. And there is a visible rip - next stop Africa... The Bay is sheltered and snorkels are spread around. Maz is not so confident with the snorkel so we played around a bit just off the beach and were immediately surrounded by silver bream-like fish ( I will figure out what they are).

We adjourned after a while to warm up on the sand. I can't handle to much solar radiation so shortly headed back to the water... on the way down the beach I saw some long skinny fish 10 m out and went back for the camera - it was gone then, of course.

a mermaid - not a dugong

Swam out to the edge of the rocky, corally, weedy bits and spotted some small reef fish and a blue coloured Wrasse - yes, you can bet your wrasse that it was a wrasse of some sort! I tried photos but could not tell underwater and in bright sun whether the camera was on - it was apparently, off.

After an hour and a half we headed back, stopping at some other beaches and camps - and the info centre... then feeling guilty headed back to Honey. Dodging kangaroos and emus on the way.

forgot to wipe the water off the lens.

not all the beaches are white sand...

dont know what this is in the corner of a photo
... maybe it is a dugong

Whilst we did not get out on the reef itself - we are seriously motivated to come back, and for me with my Open Water Dive qualification and medical up to date!!! The place is beautiful, just from the shore and the shallows.

27th Sept - Birthday at North West Cape

Northern end of east coast - gulf

Hippo Birdies Maz.



 Today we have transport and are off to explore! Up the east coast of the peninsula to Bundegi Beach, back around the Naval Comms Station to the Cape and Dunes surf beach, Jurabi Turtle Centre, various other beaches and as far down the west coast as we are allowed to go - with a dog in the car...





We started on the east heading north as far as we could go and next to the antenna array belonging to the Harold Holt Naval Communications Station. Commissioned in 1967 the US built installation is now run by the RAN - with US involvement. The massive array is for Very Low Frequency radio, initially for long range communication underwater... There are lots of other antenna arrays at and along the cape, but the VLF array which covers tens of sq km and on masts over 1000 feet high, dominates the landscape.

The beach on the east coast, the gulf, is called Bundegi. We all had a stretch! Then we headed south, west and north again the the end of the cape where we could see the 1907 wreck of the SS Mildura. 400+ bullocks lost but no humans. The Captain lost his job.

Down the coast further there are many beach access roads and carparks. "No Camping". The dunes are popular turtle nesting sites and there is and information centre at the Jurabi Conservation Area.



Next beach we checked was Jansz... magnificent. The reef is only a km off shore. The kite surfers love this sea breeze.

We could only go as far as Tantabiddi Boat Ramp, which is the launching place for glass bottomed boat tours and some snorkling and diving tours.

A few KM further on at the start of the Cape Range National Park is a manned/ staffed/ personned, Ranger Station. Manned because camping permits must be inspected (there is no vacancy at the moment - holidays) AND day entry fees apply. So we turned around - for today.

On the way back we had to stop for an Emu to wander across the road and went up to the Vlamingh Head Lighthouse for the view - because it was there. Very windy by now and getting sandblasted out of the car. Took some pix and off.

Back at Exmouth we checked out the Marina - big, serious boats. And there is a canal estate, a la Gold Coast... but smaller...

We have cheap snorkel and masks for tomorrow, and will leave Honey in the bus while we go straight around to Turquoise Bay for a snorkel (45 minutes each way). Hopefully the wind will abate.

This is a beautiful part of the world. We get it!

Finally it is off to the Golden Orchid for a birthday dinner with our BYO Pinot Grigio...

26th Sept - Exmouth Town

Planning a day in today. So after breakfast is it awning time. Did I mention the ground is hard... It has nearly killed me getting pegs into the ground to pin the awning and shade screen! I need a fair-dinkum mash hammer. Bent a couple of the little pegs nailing down the C-Gear ground sheet. Now we have our 'room' and clothes line Maz is into the washing. Some of her stuff has been 'sootied' in the rear cupboard. I cannot keep the exhaust soot completely out - yet. Better sealing is on the to-do list!

And it is another nice day... Glad to be out of the 40's and even high 30's (for a while). Exmouth forecast is for 28 max til the weekend then 31 and 33... about 17-20 at night (and humidity in the 50's%).

I have booked a cheap hire car (Hyundai) for $55 a day for Thurs and Fri. So the exploring is on! And the footy Saturday arvo of course!! But we have missed out on Coral Bay. The only 'slot' available was the 28th - then booked out for the two weeks of the school holidays. We will stop and gaze and have morning tea there, on our way to Carnarvon. It will be interesting to see if this place, Exmouth , fills up during the weekend.

25th Sept - Onslow to Exmouth

It was a coolish start to the morning with an easterly breeze off the water. Usual pack up and breakfast. Said cherio to neighbours of the lat two days, Graeme and Ginny. Graeme has an aortic aneurism repair (and a less visible scar than me!) Unfortunately, he did not know about his till it failed. He is a one in about 100 survivor... but copped some collateral damage in a bit of a stroke... They are following down the coast, at a leisurely pace.

After a refuel (at $1.699/l) it is again off down the road. The Onslow town map has a highlight - photo op about 10km down the road "Termite Viewing" so we will check that out! Sure enough there is a sign and a parking bay from which to observe the work of the spinifex termites (which eat grass not wood). Didn't see a single termite tho....

Back on the North West Coast Highway (which is about 100km from the coast so far) it is 40km to Nannutara Roadhouse. Top up at $2.05 per litre, a new record! So Onslow at a dead-end 80km off the highway manages $1.70 but on the highway which the tankers travel past on they charge $2.05!!!! Because they can! Fortunately only take 23l....

Mars with scrub (and blue sky)

Cape Range in the distance

First view of Exmouth Gulf...

Another 130km to the Exmouth turnoff. No more mines or gas plants - for awhile. Then the turn back to north west to Exmouth the terrain is like Mars - but with some short scrubby bushes. Then a range appears on the western side (Cape Range NP). Eventually past Learmonth, sand dunes on the right. Finally a glimpse of water, a few houses, and then Exmouth.


The Ningalloo Resort and CP is the only dog friendly around here and the dog corner is a bit desolate. Mostly granitic sand and hard as concrete. Anyway we are in and here for 5 nights, so we are here for the birthday and the Grand Final. And by the way there is plenty of vacancy inspite of warnings to book - WA school holidays start Friday...

After getting "parked up", we are off to the Visitor Centre across the road, and collect some reading matter. The shops are only several hundred metres down the road. Let's go - at a medium hobble. My leg is a getting a bit better, but not working so well after 420KM and 4:45 driving... The walk might help get it working...

Basic shops - including TWO IGAs on opposite sides of the open Mall??? Dive shops, hairdressers eateries - including a Chinese finally! (Birthday treat I reckon).

We have decided to hire a car for Thursday and Friday to get around a bit, particularly to Turquoise Bay which is on the other side of the peninsula (about 65km). There is the usual bind of can't leave Honey unattended (rules as well as prudence) and where we want to go is... National Park... We will explore tomorrow and maybe cheat on Friday...

We have DTV for a change how novel, Spicks and Specks re-runs tonight! And I have my foot up finally, it and the leg are a bit swollen. Tomorrow I am told I must keep it up, mostly...

PS: Would you believe Exmouth has Telstra 4G - but I am struggling with the 3G which is very slow upload (the pix)

24th Sept - Onslow - and onwards....

We have had a relaxing day at Onslow. Wandered around town, cased the joint really about 9 and walked back along the eastern beach - Beardon. Went the two blocks back into town to re-stock with 'grog' (liquor shop opens at 10)... as does the museum, historical corner - except apparently on Mondays!

A little after sunrise - special

and sunset...

Bronze slouch hats

 A bit novel this morning with the sunrise over the water (with the coast behind admittedly) We need to walk over the point to see the sunset, and walking is still not so flash for me, but getting better. Maz went some of the way last night. We might imagine it from here tonight - while cooking up some real OZ Barramundi!

We have a choice of two fuel sources for the morning, one at $1.699 a litre and one 100 metres further down the road at $1.799 !!! Even full out of here, we will top up (only) at the notoriously expensive Nanutarra Roadhouse 130km down the road. We can 'easily' make the 405km to Exmouth on a full tank.... but I am loathe to get too far in the the bottom half of the tank. You never know!

The latest onwards plan is for several nights at Exmouth (B), several at Coral Bay, a stop at Carnarvon, several nights at Denham (C), a night or two at Kalbarri (D), maybe stop at Dongara (Denison (E)), maybe Guilderton (F) then Tuart Hill - Perth. That way is 2050km from Onslow and about two weeks...

23rd Sept - Point Samson, Karratha, Onslow

As usual a diesel starts nearby at dawn.... Nothing for it but get up and at-em. After the caffeine heart starter, I figure I can easily push the car back and ford to the bus hitch. Pushing forward my left calf fells like a hamstring snap .... not that bad, fortunately I can walk - well hobble. Fortunately have a masseuse handy with Metsal and Voltaren. Looks like being a long day...

Setting course a 8 we should be the 61.5km to Nickol, as advised, at the McNabbs about 9. Pretty much on time we a meet and yack for a couple of hours. Great to meet Noelle and catch up with Nabbers. Then it's off fuel up with Noelles kindly donanted 15c Woolies voucher - and the Supermarket... where the McNabbs catch up to us again.

 Then it really is off - we figure - to Onslow 300km. There are mines and gas plants in the middle of the Pilbara FA all the way. everywhere. Apparently Onslow is to be the next new Port and Rail Hub....

Had to wait about 5 minutes for this 2KM ore train to pass

We are next to the memorial park

We eventually arrive without drama about 4PM at the Caravan Park by the water. It's a bit old a tired - and $45 p/n, but a good drive through and not far from the shops, And right on the water.


We will stay two nights then to Exmouth... 400KM

22nd Sept - Point Samson

As usual there in someone leaving at sparrow fart... and warming up the diesel ... we are up early again.... for a bit of exploring on foot, before it gets hot. But mostly planning a day off. Off to the beach Honeymoon Cove. When we all arrive there is an old and battered sign (which we missed the day before) "D.G.S P..H..B.T..D"(dogs prohibited) and being Saturday there were a bunch of people with kids... so we took Honey home - and gave here a wash. She has become a seriously pink dog. After drying her reasonably, she was lefty inside to dry a bit more while we are off for a proper dip in the Indian Ocean.

As the Point Samson fish and chips is apparently worth the 60km trip from Karratha we thought to give it a try for dinner. Eating out! It is under the pub. On the way we are joined by new (ex-pom) neighbours. It is a very good feed (and naturaally for around here, it is not cheap). After eating and talking for quite a while we are off to bed. Big day - washed the dog, went for a swim, out for dinner....  

Oh and had call from Ricky Martin, yes the guy from Fitzroy Crossing... seeing how we had got on. We have actually passed him and his missus at Barn Hill south of.... somewhere... Broome, I think. Delightful surprise.

Tomorrow we will head to Karratha to see Rod and Noelle, and then probably keep going...

Recap from NW-WA

Since leaving Karumba we have covered 4600 KM in the bus.








With our planned diversions to Exmouth, Denham (Shark Bay/ Monkey Mia) and Kalbarri, we have about 2300KM to go to Perth...


Which will be over 11,000km since leaving home...

So far we have spent just over $2000 on caravan parks and about $3000 on fuel - so far!



Perth to Mulwala will be at least 3500KM - with detours over 4000KM... So we are looking at over  15,000 KM and $5000+ on fuel...

...and GO SYDNEY SWANS!!!

21st Sept - Pardoo to Point Samson...

This what Gascoyne/ Pilbara FA looks like

Today, Port Hedland is the next port of call... Turn right off the highway; 10KM, the port - oh and town and stuff. Pass the Rio Tinto salt, BHP ores etc etc Eventually we find the water... and it's full of ships!! We find a spot to park, and we are accidently 200m from the info centre.

into Port Hedland

Simple request for the Info ladies - which caravan parks accept dogs - none. There is an overflow at the Golf Club  (South Hedland)... used to have some accepting dogs, but had a big dog fight recently involving police - so no dogs... and back-packers wanting somewhere to stay with old versions of Lonely Planet... the accomodation was blown away in cyclone.... Boy, was the info lady needing to unload, unfortunately it was us! Since we were there near the bank and Post Office did a bit of business. Used our 15c/l Woolies fuel voucher on the way and got out of Dodge, er, Hedland.

partly loaded - see the empty ship on the left

BHP iron ore going to China...
The info centre had ship list and destinations...

Rio Tinto salt on the way out of Hedland

Point Samson new jetty

The next interesting potential stop is north of Karratha, Point Samson. We will look there. Accommodation has not been a problem so far, with winter warmup people heading south now it has, well, 'warmed up'. Point Samsom looks nice.

It is a Port with big sucker loading jetty. But the town/village/settlement is away from that. The only CP we can find (books/online) is the Cove CP... after some discussion... we find it by accident. Looks good will stay 2 nights R&R. Turns out to be the most expensive yet $49 per night. What the heck. After disconnecting the Vitara and pushing it around. We are ready to explore... and need a walk. It's 1330.

Honey Cove, Point Samson

Out the back gate of the park and 200m around the cliff is a beautiful little beach; Honeymoon Cove. We will be back for a swim tomorrow and there are no 'Dogs Prohibited' signs.


Wandering the other way we find the Tavern, the Fish and Chips and the General Store - and the main beach (Dogs Prohibited).

Rang Rod McNabb. He is at work and watching his newly rated replacement ATC. He and Noel are heading east mid October. Rumour is he may be part-time Avalon Tower then... sublime to ridiculous. We will track him down Sunday morning when we head south... Rod advises that in KA any caravan site starts at $80 per night and a 30 year old house is $1800+ per WEEK... We may just keep going after saying hello.

Meanwhile having had a wander, bought some wine (A CASK!!!) done some washing, got organised, It's beer o'clock in the wonderful sea breeze.

20th Sept - Broome to Pardoo (roadhouse)

We have ticked the only boxes we need for Broome having spent nearly a week here a couple of times. Dinosaurs / pearls / camels... and sunsets....

This morning it's fit the new alternator pivot bolt! It's too long. Broome Bolts doesn't have a shorter one or even a 9/16th inch one.... Ahah, I have just enough washers to stop the nut bottoming on the thread - but there is not quite enough space to get it started - well maybe, if I lift the alternator up enough to get the first CM in the hole. Success! It has a split washer between two flat washers on the head and 3 flat washers under the nyloc nut. In business.

out back of Pardoo Roadhouse

We are not planning on going all the way to Port Hedland (600+) , and Sandfire Roadhouse is halfway (300KM). It's a hole, and the bus is going well, we refuel and aim for the next spot - Pardoo Roadhouse (+150KM).
It has green!! and signs of civilisation so we are in the CP for the night. 8400KM since home, 12+ weeks ago.
Port Hedland is only 155KM... and South Hedland is a further 20KM and apparently more salubrious... We will see tomorrow.

I enquired of Airservices who were ATC staff at Broome and Karratha. I knew a few bodies, but am keen to catch up with old neighbour and friend, Rod McNabb who is at Karratha. He rang while we were on the road. Will see him in a day or two...